2023 is the Year of the Coast. It also marks the creation of the new England Coast Path and I am very well aware that some of the most staggeringly beautiful sections are in North Devon, which I am very proud to represent as the Member of Parliament.
I decided it would therefore be appropriate to walk the length of the constituency coastline, with Henry, my much loved, if mischievous, fox red Labrador and persuaded friend, and councillor, Lucinda Renshaw that she would also like to do this, with Dougal the poodle and so the planning began.
Originally planned for 3 days in July, injuries, house moves, and better planning saw us move to late September with a 4 day route of approximately 15 miles each day, the hilliest sections being a bit shorter, the flat longer. As indeed the challenge of the stretch from the County border above Lynmouth to Saunton Sands is not the distance, but the up and down! My plan had always been to highlight the fantastic hospitality businesses along the route, which really enhance the beauty of this stretch of our stunning coast.
Day 1 – we started at the Devon Somerset border, unfortunately before the lovely Ramblers Rest tearoom was open – my training walk here saw bus return from Lynmouth and super afternoon tea here – and if 7 miles is your limit I’d highly recommend this stretch of the walk!
Whilst rain was forecast, it was no more than mizzle, and the joy of this stretch with dogs is the lack of livestock, much of the route slightly back from the actual cliff edge, so dogs could run free whilst we tackled the steep descent!
My preferred pastie shop was not open in Lynmouth, but the Coffee Mill came up trumps with a pastie and doggie ice cream! Henry’s singing meant we did not stop long, before heading up towards Valley of the Rocks. Our slowest kilometre split of the entire walk was heading up the funicular railway – and yes we did contemplate catching it – but were determined to walk the entirety of the path!
I had not walked out from Lynmouth before and the Valley of the Rocks is spectacular and I am easily won over by goats just sat on rocks looking at us! That first day was stunning, varied, long, full of blisters, and as we headed down into Heddon’s Valley, I did wonder if we would make it all the way to Instow.
For many logistical reasons whilst enjoying a drink and more cake at the Hunters Inn, we were collected and dropped at the lovely Sandy Cove Hotel. The presence of a swimming pool being a big draw for sore feet! Not to mention a large wine and more carbohydrates than I’d normally consume, along with a stunning view made it a very lovely overnight stop!
Day 2 – we were returned to Hunters Inn in Heddon’s Valley to pick up where we left off the day before, and having done the whole of day 2 during training, knew it was a tough one! Henry is particularly interested in sheep, and I don’t particularly like sheer drops off cliffs – especially whilst clutching a Labrador keen to say hello to the sheep on the corner! But a new lead from Lucinda with a halite addition saw us all get round the corner without any lurching towards sheep!
It’s a tough start heading up Heddon’s Valley, and it gets worse when you get to Great Hangman if really steep isn’t your preference! There were other hills inbetween, but those were the two my legs remember the most! We certainly didn’t opt to tackle Little Hangman for the view whilst in the area. And despite discussions over walking through lunch – the Focsle Inn’s jacket potatoes won out! And did we need the energy as the walk into Ilfracombe is hilly to put it mildly!
I was walking for the Ilfracombe RNLI so it was great to pass their site as we walked round the harbour before picking up a much needed Hockings ice cream on the seafront, before heading into the Carlton Hotel for the night. I enjoyed walking in to my overnight stay – my respect for anyone camping and carrying their own equipment is immense, as my bags had travelled without me!
Dinner at the Carlton was excellent, and the team could not be more accommodating of our random requests, and in my case, increasing inability to move far as I had now layered my blister plasters!
Day 3 – we headed out the back of the hotel back onto the coast path – neither of us had walked any of this before – so into the unknown we went. The Torrs were absolutely stunning – remote, and hardly saw a sign of life! And to be frank, I can see why, it was a tough walk, up and down and then up and down. I was so pleased the cliffs looked smaller ahead than the days before, but the relentless nature of this stretch was tough, stunning, but fortunately scattered with benches to recover on!
I was delighted to see the disused hotel in Lee Bay is to be developed, there are far too many derelict buildings in North Devon, and never having been to Lee Bay before, am pleased others will be able to live in this beautiful remote community, and those there will not have their views blighted by a derelict hotel.
I personally love where man meets sea, everything from harbours to lighthouses and Bull Point was great! Morte Point was very windy, really very windy! But spectacular – a word probably over used in covering this walk, but this stretch was a delight. It was also fascinating to see the granite rocks turn to the beautiful sandy surf beaches as we turned the corner. However, I may not have done enough training for the journey, and the Red Barn was a very welcome sight in Woolacombe, as was yet another plate of carbs, Henry it turns out loves chips as well!
We had extended day 3 a little from the original plan, with Storm Agnes due on day 4, we were keen to get ahead of the worst of that! So we headed right along to Saunton Sands. The beaches here are some of the best not just in the country, but I would say the world. Miles of sand, rolling waves, absolutely delightful – if you haven’t been – come and visit – our beaches almost all have excellent bathing water, and the surf is the best in the country.
The coasteering activity with lots of youngsters battling waves wasn’t for me – but they said it was great and they’d seen a seal!
We were picked up at Saunton Sands and dropped at Lobbs Field in Braunton, for a night of glamping! My feet were possibly more ready for a foot spa than glamping, but it is a stunning camp site, and we were lucky to have fantastic bell tents provided by Native Surf Hire and Bell Tents. Fortunately Lucinda’s wonderful husband was on hand to give us a lift to the Williams Arms for supper, as walking we hadn’t really packed to BBQ at the tents! Again huge respect to those that do this completely under their own power.
Henry and Dougal were exhausted, as were we. But you know when you are three quarters of the way through you are going to get there!
Day 4 – my long suffering Office Manager collected us at 7am, armed with a McDonalds breakfast – it would be fair to say, our starts were earlier than most breakfast options! And from Saunton Sands, we eventually found the trail and headed on the flattest part of the journey. The temptation to miss Crow Point was great, but we were determined to do the entire path, even if the American Road was not the most inspiring section of the walk!
Breakfast number two at the Quay Café was just what was needed! And from there it was the long push home where the SW path meets the Tarka Trail. This stretch I know well as I enjoy the cycle round, but its certainly quicker on a bike! The mission was more cake at the excellent Fremington Quay (did not disappoint), as we pressed on to get back to Instow before the storm came in.
Given the amount of rain in the forecast, the weather was kind, we were met in Instow, and just in the car when the skies opened.
I could hardly move. Henry wondered if the adventure would continue, and indeed the next morning was clearly keen to repeat, but even he knew that all good things come to an end, and sleep was pressing for both of us!
It was a great adventure, better shared with a friend, as well as your four legged best friend! The SW coast path is stunning, and I hope this Year of the Coast continues to highlight its magnificence as well as the fabulous hospitality businesses along it.
And if you haven’t been to see us in North Devon recently – book us in – we’ve so much to offer the whole family!
